Newborn lambs play on the green carpet of fields that stretch toward Keswick, guests chatter on the lawn, and a buzzard circles in the blue sky high above.

It’s spring in Borrowdale and I’m sat in the garden of the Leathes Head Hotel - barely a stone’s skim along the River Derwent from what Alfred Wainwright dubbed the ‘loveliest square mile in Lakeland’.

I’m sipping on one of Keswick Brewing Company's delicious ales, looking forward to a dinner of locally sourced food and marvelling on how this graceful Edwardian building – rising from the valley floor in local slate – is afforded the most wonderful views of this world famous landscape.

As we settle in, I notice the ‘welcome back’ offered to returning guests: A sure sign of the hotel’s popularity and offered with an air of familiarity and warmth characteristic of our stay with hosts, Jane Cleary and Jamie Adamson.

Each of the hotel's eleven recently-revamped rooms looks upon the surrounding panorama, ranging from a standard double or twin at £150 to the superior spa room at £230, which was to be our home for two nights and where even the luxurious bubble bath boasts views of Derwent Water.

‘Would have made an excellent wedding anniversary venue’ remarks my wife, with a wry smile suggesting my last efforts at a romantic getaway were nowhere near as plush as this.

But then few places are – The Leathes Head really has relaxed luxury down to a tee, without ever feeling too showy.

The hotel's recent makeover reflects their support of local businesses, featuring a bar made of slate from the Kirkstone Pass, handcrafted Cumbrian oak and even a basket light weaved with willow that was harvested near Cockermouth.

The ethos is created carried into the kitchen too, where head chef, Daniel Hopkins, treats guests to a menu of locally grown, reared and foraged produce, including Herdwick Lamb from Rosthwaite, milk and free range eggs from nearby Scales Farm, and whole host of other fresh meat and produce from Cumbrian producers.

Before dinner my wife and I sit in the hotel’s conservatory, enjoying hors-d'oeuvre and spying on the birdlife through handily placed binoculars while the sun goes down over Derwent Water in the near distance.

The restaurant is the standard you’d expect from the only two AA rosette awarded restaurant in Borrowdale Valley.

I plump for the ham hock followed by Cumbrian beef fillet while my wife has salmon crudo and Hoggart from the nearby Yew Tree farm, all washed down with a bottle of red from their extensive wine list and another of those delicious Keswick Brewery ales, which if you want to sample can be tasted on the brewery tour in town.

Inspired by last evening’s bird watching, we take a trip to Dodd Wood Forestry Commission the following day and make the short walk uphill to the Osprey viewing point, where RSPB volunteers help us watch these majestic birds fish in the waters of Bassenthwaite Lake.

Later that night we visited Keswick’s Theatre by the Lake to watch a stage version of A Shepherd’s Life - James Rebanks’ modern masterpiece of fell farming and a paean to the hard work of Lakeland folk.

Returning after dark, slow moving lights on the hillside alert us to a farmer checking his flock and, with the play in mind, I’m reminded that none of this is here by accident.

Though the landscape might be mistaken for a little piece of heaven, it’s been mined and farmed for centuries and it’s down to the graft of locals that it’s maintained.

The Leathes Head is a shining example of this - a hardworking team who welcome you calmly, professionally into their care and support the wider economy of attractions and businesses that make this part of the world so unique.

And so to Wainright’s Borrowdale and the loveliest square mile in Lakeland, one might add – in the Leathes Head Hotel – it has one of its loveliest places to stay.

Things to do:-

Keswick Brewery Tours and Shop

Brewery Lane, CA125BY

keswickbrewery.co.uk

017687 80700

Go Ape tree top adventure

Whinlatter forest, CA125TW

goape.co.uk/whinlatter

0845 094 9726

Keswick Launch lake cruises

Lake Road, CA12 5DJ

keswick-launch.co.uk

017687 72263

Theatre by the Lake

Lakeside, CA12 5DJ

theatrebythelake.com

017687 74411

Honsiter slate mine adventure centre

Honister Pass, CA12 5XN

honister.com

017687 77230